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Chefs, cooks serve important roles aboard Great Lakes ships

Courtesy Photo This photo provided by Gerson Rances Compuesto shows Compuesto, chief cook, presenting a Victoria Day celebration buffet onboard the CSL Oakglen.

ALPENA — The Great Lakes are filled with a variety of vessel traffic, ranging from Great Lakes and ocean freighters, tugboats, barges, American and Canadian coast guard boats, and passenger cruise ships.

Many of those boats and ships are in operation for weeks and months at a time — even, for some, year-round. That means the crew and passengers need to have access to nutritious, creative, and healthy meals and snacks.

With months and weeks on the lakes, food is a major and important aspect not to be skimped upon.

Imagine you are the chef, cook, or lead steward on a Great Lakes freighter, and are preparing for the upcoming shipping season. A major in-port fire engulfs the boat’s stern and upper decks, which includes the galley and dining area. That is what Dick LaLonde experienced in 2015 with the then-73-year-old S.S. Alpena.

Now entering its 80th year, the Alpena is the oldest freighter sailing the Great Lakes.

Courtesy Photo This photo provided by Chef Catherine Schmuck shows Schmuck presenting a noon meal.

With well over 25 years of Great Lakes sailing experience, LaLonde had to quickly replace cabinetry, refrigeration, and cooking systems, galley cooking and serving utensils, and equipment, as well as tables and seating.

Mission accomplished.

LaLonde was again ready to prepare and serve meals and snacks to nearly two dozen crewmembers. He stated he prided himself in making made-from-scratch servings, rather than “ripping off the tin foil” from commercially prepared meals. Sundays offered a selection of ham, turkey, and lamb, with homemade mashed potatoes and stuffing.

There was always a salad bar and homemade soup. Other days featured steak and pizza. Leftover steak worked its way into French-dip sandwiches served on fresh-baked rolls.

Laura Potier has served on international ships, some of which traveled into the Arctic. Her Great Lakes experience was aboard Canadian Steamship Line CSL boats.

Courtesy Photo This photo provided by Chef Catherine Schmuck shows Schmuck preparing to board a CSL freighter.

“With a younger crew and viewing of numerous foodie television shows, presents various diet, medical, religious, and palette needs,” she said.

Growing up on shipping lanes, Catherine Schmuck exhibited a passion for the Great Lakes, sailing, and food. At the age of 19, she entered the restaurant profession. Several years later, she served in a freighter’s galley for the better part of 13 years.

Schmuck returned to the restaurant profession, opening a highly successful and media-recognized restaurant in Mont Trembant, Quebec, Canada.

In 2019, the Great Lakes again beckoned Schmuck to serve aboard freighters.

Typically, she serves a crew of 17 to 25 who look forward to her legendary baked goods and made-from-scratch meals. Because of her decades of food experience, she is sensitive to any crewmember’s special diet needs. When a new crewmember arrives, she inquires directly with them and writes on a white board seeking any special needs. In addition, she observes what diners prefer and do not.

Courtesy Photo This photo provided by Viking Cruise Lines shows passengers enjoying breakfast aboard the Viking Octantis.

Schmuck said she prefers to have the galley offer a rear-exit door so she can easily experience an out-of-doors deck. In addition, having the refrigeration and freezer system, as well as storage area adjacent to the galley.

Even during the winter non-shipping season, she prepares onboard meals for limited crew members performing in-port preventive maintenance and improvements.

This past year, her passion led to the publication of a 280-page, hardbound “Ship to Shore Chef” book. The book is filled with recipes, current and historical photos and stories, as well as her personal memories, passions, and experiences. Detailed order information can be found on her Ship to Shore Chef Facebook page.

Commissioned in June 2006 is the Cheboygan-based, 240-foot USCGC Mackinaw.

According to the nearly 3,600-ton boat’s operations officer, Patrick J. Buell, the typical crew is 55. He added that the icebreaker offers the unique Azipod propulsion system, which allows a full 360-degree turn.

Courtesy Photo This photo provided by the USCGC Mackinaw shows the Mackinaw crew enjoying lunch aboard the Great Lakes cutter.

Culinary Specialist First Class Daniel Brown and CS Second Class Aaron Morris stated meals are made from scratch and served by a galley crew of four, along with two rotating mess deck personnel. They added meals and rations are constantly offered throughout the day. When daily baking occurs, the aroma travels throughout the decks.

Food and related provisions are acquired in various ports through negotiated vendors. Traditionally, stocking reflects a two-week underway cycle.

Buell went on to reveal that, since the crew is from across the U.S., that tastes and personal needs vary. That means diets, religious, and other related aspects are fully addressed.

Currently on the Great Lakes, there are a number of commercial passenger cruise ships. Among the two most prominent are Viking and Pearl Seas lines.

A Viking company spokesperson said the 665-foot Viking Octantis in 2022 entered its first year of Great Lakes cruises. The ship’s Great Lakes sailing season begins in late April and runs through October. The remaining months will have the ship on an Antarctica cruise.

With five primary decks, the Viking Octantis can serve up to 378 passengers with a crew of 256. In addition to passenger staterooms, crew quarters, lounge and deck viewing areas, the ship offers a pool, exercise equipment room, hair salon, and medical service area.

The cruise ship offers a vast array of restaurants, ranging from interior and on-deck fine dining, casual dining, a delicatessen, and a specialty Italian restaurant. Twenty-four-hour room service is also provided.

With all its cruise ships, the Swiss-based company is known for creating regional menus relevant to the cruise. In addition, prior to undertaking any cruise, passengers are approached by Viking to ensure special menu, dietary, or religious food needs are fully addressed.

It appears that, with any Great Lakes vessel, quality and creative food is abundant. Just go onboard at the right time and smell the cinnamon rolls being baked.

Jeffrey D. Brasie is retired health care CEO and frequently writes op-eds and feature stories. He is a former Alpena resident and resides in suburban Detroit and is a U.S. Navy and U.S. Navy Reserve veteran.

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